Surviving Lucile Ltd sketches reveal numerous artists of varying talent levels, and these are often mis-attributed to herself. Collars were overall very tall and stiffened.
The exhibition is organized by Elizabeth Way, assistant curator of costume. Fashion is a world of extremes, where sartorial expression ranges from minimalist to maximalist aesthetics. Some designers may identify almost exclusively with one over the other; Calvin Klein, for instance, was known for fashion minimalism. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.
In fashion, minimalism and maximalism define two extremes along the design spectrum. Minimalism, the aesthetic of less-is-more, is based on a reductive approach to design, and celebrates purity and restraint.
Maximalism, on the other hand, accentuates the beauty of excess and redundancy. While these may be considered aesthetic opposites, both seek to challenge perception, and as forms of expression, they serve as indicators of the sociocultural and economic zeitgeist of the given time period.
Fashion Extremes will explore the interplay between minimalist and maximalist aesthetics as they have been and continue to be expressed through fashion. Beginning in the eighteenth century the exhibition will examine how these aesthetic viewpoints are expressed over time and move fashion forward. Ballet took its place in the western pantheon of modern high culture during the interwar years of the twentieth century.
The popularization of classical ballet owes much to the British and Americans. Imperial Russian classical ballet would become the most popular performing art in the United Kingdom during the s and s, and later, the United States. At its peak, from the early s to mid-century, haute couture looked to classical ballets such as Giselle , Swan Lake, and Sleeping Beauty for aesthetic inspiration.
Wool or tweed suit clothing called tailor-mades or in French tailleurs featured ankle-length skirts with matching jackets; ladies of fashion wore them with fox furs and huge hats.
Two new styles of headgear which became popular at the turn of the century were the motoring veil for driving and sailor hats worn for tennis matches, bicycling and croquet. This decade marked the full flowering of Parisian haute couture as the arbiter of styles and silhouettes for women of all classes. Designers sent fashion models or mannequins to the Longchamp races wearing the latest styles,  and fashion photographs identified the creators of individual gowns.
The new styles featured form-fitting gowns with high or indefined waists, or ankle-length skirts and long tunic-like jackets, and required a different "straight line" corset. The Paris correspondent for Vogue described this new look as "straighter and straighter Huge, broad-brimmed hats were worn in mid-decade, trimmed with masses of feathers and occasionally complete stuffed birds hummingbirds for those who could afford them , or decorated with ribbons and artificial flowers.
Masses of wavy hair were fashionable, swept up to the top of the head if necessary, over horsehair pads called "rats" and gathered into a knot. By the end of the decade, hats had smaller drooping brims that shaded the face and deep crowns, and the overall top-heavy effect remained. Shoes were narrow and often emphasized. They had a pointed toe and a medium height heel. Buttons, patent leather, and laced models of the shoe were also manufactured and readily available.
Similarly, there were shoes for every occasion; oxfords for a tailored costume, slippers with straps for festive occasions or pumps with pearl buckles, and finally, boots which were often edged in fur to stave off the winter chill when riding in a carriage in the winter. Shoes were commonly made with seal skin or Moroccan leather. Having boots made of seal skin was most common for people in a higher social class. Seal skin boots were known to be extremely durable and could be worn during every season.
Boots made from Moroccan leather were more uncomfortable and stiff. World War I caused this opulent era to tone down due to the increased sanctions on the trade of leather and other fabrics, and shoes were starting to incorporate a fabric topping. The long, lean, and athletic silhouette of the s persisted. Hair was generally worn short. Beards were less pointed than before and moustaches were often curled.
The sack coat or lounge coat continued to replace the frock coat for most informal and semi-formal occasions. Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat U. Trousers were shorter than before, often had turn-ups or cuffs , and were creased front and back using the new trouser press.
The blazer , a navy blue or brightly colored or striped flannel coat cut like a sack coat with patch pockets and brass buttons, was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities. The Norfolk jacket remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits.
It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt. Worn with matching breeches or U. The cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere, with striped trousers. The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark or light waistcoat.
Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar. The less formal dinner jacket or tuxedo , which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, now generally had a single button. Dinner jackets were appropriate formal wear when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club. The dinner jacket was worn with a white shirt and a dark tie. Knee-length topcoats and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter. Formal dress shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings".
Collars were overall very tall and stiffened. Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated with shirt studs and buttoned up the back. Striped shirts were popular for informal occasions.
The usual necktie was a narrow four-in-hand. Ascot ties were worn with formal day dress and white bow ties with evening dress. Top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; soft felt Homburgs or stiff bowler hats were worn with lounge or sack suits, and flat straw boaters were worn for casual occasions.
Shoes for men were mostly over the ankle. Toe cap, lace up boots in black, gray, or brown were the most common for everyday wear. Formal occasions called for formal boots with white uppers spat style and buttons on the side. In the Edwardian times basic lace up oxford shoes were introduced. Girls' fashion for this time period imitated older women of the same period.
Girls wore dresses of knee length, with trimmings at the hem such as lace and embroidery similar to women's lingerie dresses. Their hair was generally worn long and curly with decorations of ribbon.
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